YORKSHIRE WOLDS GUIDE
Gwendoline Hirst ©
If the Romans were expecting a confrontation when they sailed across the Humber into Brigantia in 71 AD
they would have been surprised to find a peaceful landscape of small farms run by people of the Parisi
tribe. These well established communities were self sufficient, with arable crops, livestock and workshops
supplying cloth, leather and pottery. Marching across the wolds towards Malton they would see cattle and
sheep on the hills, with banks and ditches forming drove roads for moving them from place to place. Nothing
much has changed over the following two thousand years, except that many of the hedges round the small
fields have been taken out to form large open areas in which wheat and barley are grown, and cattle and sheep
still roam the wolds.
THE WEST WOLDS
MEANDER BETWEEN BRIDLINGTON AND BROUGH
When following this route L means turn left;
R means turn right; + means cross roads
You may also like to use a road map or satellite navigation
This round trip of approximately 90 miles travelling south takes you through Beverley to the Humber, at
the beginning of the Yorkshire wolds.
We start at the Scarborough Road roundabout in Bridlington Old Town and take the A165 Hull road.
Continue to Carnaby then turn L at the roundabout after Manor Court Hotel along Bridlington Bay road, then R at
the roundabout, A165. Fraisthorpe sands, left, has been a designated naturist beach since 1980 and
was used as such for many years before this. However, in the 1990s the council sent police to prevent
naturists using the beach, but to no avail, as they still congregate there.
As you approach Lissett you will see the twelve wind turbines built on the World War 2 airfield in 2009.
Continue on the main road through Beeford to Warley Cross. This area was part of Brandesburton Moor, with a
small hamlet called Moor Town. Right is the tiny Primitive Methodist Chapel, built in 1870, which closed in 1976,
then opened as a crematorium for small animals in 1985. A mobile, wooden chapel to be used for Bursill and Moor
Town was built in 1888, but became too difficult to move about, so was given to Brandesburton football club as a
changing room in the 1950s.
Take the 2nd exit at Brandesburton roundabout along the dual carriageway, built in 1974 to bypass Brandesburton
and Leven. Continue along the dual carriageway, taking the 2nd exit at Leven, then keep in the right hand Beverley
lane and take the 2nd exit, A1035 at the next roundabout. A white cross originally stood here at the junction of
the Beverley, Hornsea and Hull roads, but this was moved and buried in the churchyard at St Faiths, Little Leven.
In 1836 it was dug up and placed in Holy Trinity church, Leven. White Cross House, left, was the turnpike house for
collecting tolls from travellers.
Turn L Meaux, to see All Saints church, right, probably built in the 1100s in Early English style. The walls are now pebbledashed, and the low tower, rebuilt in 1905 has one bell. The interior, restored in 1835 and 1905, has an effigy of a knight in the chancel, probably Sir William de Routh who died in 1240. On the floor of the chancel is a brass probably depicting Sir John Routh and his wife Agnes who died in 1420. The old rectory is next to the church. During ploughing in the 1800s the remains of a primeval oak forest, which had covered most of the East Riding area, were
dug up and some used as gate posts and fences.
All Saints church Routh
Back to the main road and turn L to ROUTH village. The village school built, right, by Lord Londesborough in 1864 was later
used as a reading room and village hall. A new reading room was built next door in 1935 named Samman Hall after Sir Henry
Samman who gave the site to the village and the two buildings became a house in 1968, becoming the Christadelphian
Meeting House in 1996. A decoy airfield operated in the area in 1940 to protect Leconfield.
Tickton Grange, right, was made into a hotel in 1980. There was probably a house on the site from the 1600s, which
had alterations over the years, particularly by Christopher Keld in the 1700s. Called Mount Pleasant in 1823, the
name was changed to Tickton Grange in 1829. A new south east wing was added in 1926 by J. Harrison Broadley.
Turn L to TICKTON. This was one of the ancient Water Towns, together with Hull Bridge, Eske, Thearne, Woodmansey
and Weel that made up the manor of Beverley, all situated along the river Hull. The village lies along the old road from Hull to Beverley and crossed the river Hull at Hull Bridge, but was bypassed in 1974. Left are the five almshouses, designed by William Hawe of Beverley, built in 1872 with money left by Elizabeth Stephenson. These were later converted to two houses which were renovated in 1985 and 1990. The red brick chapel, left, was built in 1877 and the old chapel used as a reading room and Working Mens Institute from 1878. Also left is the school, built in 1847, closed in 1979 and used as an old peoples home by 1987. A new school was built in 1979.
St. Pauls church, left, was originally a chapel of ease for Beverley Minster, run by a curate, so that worshippers did not have to travel to Beverley. Built of ashlar in 1844, on the site of an earlier church, it has a bell tower having a carved figure of Christ beneath it.
St. Pauls church Tickton
Hull Bridge is now closed to through traffic so bear right to the main road along the road that originally led to Tickton Hall. The hall was built in the 1840s in Elizabethan style and demolished in the 1960s, the outbuildings were then converted to a house and Beverley Polo Club took over the site in 2002.
Turn L onto the main road crossing the river Hull and the Beverley and Barmston Drain. Hull Bridge was the only bridge
crossing the river between Hull and North Frodingham until the early 1900s. Barges unloaded and loaded their produce on
the quayside which had mills and warehouses until 1984 when the remaining warehouses were demolished and a flood bank and wall built to protect the low lying area, only seven metres above sea level.
Take the 2nd exit at the roundabout to BEVERLEY Town Centre. John of Beverley chose this area in 714AD to build a
monastery. Beverley was then named Inderauda, meaning, In the wood of the men of Diera, as the area was dense woodland
at that time. Gradually Beverley became a tourist area, with pilgrims visiting to worship at the shrine of St. John after he was made St. John of Beverley in 1037 and inns, markets and shops were needed for the increasing numbers.
Enter the town along Norwood, which had a mill and a toll bar, and where it widens the area was used for cattle markets
and fairs. Right, the building with a four gabled frontage was St. Mary and St. Nicholas school built in 1875, now part of the High School for Girls. The High School was built in 1908 in the grounds of Norwood House and became comprehensive in 1973. Norwood House was built for John Midgley, alderman and three times Mayor of Beverley, in 1765 in Georgian style, with a central three storey block which had lower wings each side forming a courtyard. The grounds extend to 12 acres and the gardens still retain some of the original features. The Grade 1 listed building ceased to be used by the school in 2000 and an attempt is being made to make the house into a museum.
On the corner was the Georgian Assembly Rooms, designed by John Carr and built in 1761 by William Middleton. Opened in
1763 with a Grand Ball, it was the place to see and be seen. The building was demolished in 1935 and became the Regal
Cinema and ballroom. In 1968 this became a bingo hall which was demolished to make way for a new block of shops and
apartments. Opposite, left, on the corner, the Valiant Soldier public house became the Furlong and Firkin and then the
Turn R at the traffic lights, passing the Health centre, left, which is on the site of a Victorian house belonging to plumber George Fox. Keep L at the roundabout into Wylies Road, following the path of the town ditch which surrounded the old town. Wylies Road was just a narrow lane before the present road was built, sometimes known as Ticklebelly Alley. Robert Wylie lived in a large Georgian house on the corner, right, until 1894. Right is New Walk laid out in 1778 when several houses were built. The chestnut trees were planted in 1823 lining the road which led straight into the countryside. The Sessions House and House of Correction, left, were built in 1807, to replace the courts that would have been held in the public houses. Local architects Smith and Brodrick had numbers 9 and 11, with gabled frontages, built for their own use in the mid 1800s. St. Johns Roman catholic church nearby was also designed by Smith and Brodrick in 1897. The two half timbered houses were built for J. E. Elwell, the woodcarver. Smith and Brodrick designed number 43 in 1880 and Elwell designed number 45 in 1894, both having woodwork by Elwell, who placed a carved panel over the door of 45 depicting a scene from The Cloister and the Hearth. One of the earliest houses was number 62, built in 1732 in open countryside as the town house for the Sykes family from Sledmere.
Turn L into North Bar Without. The half timbered houses, left, were originally Georgian which James Elwell had transformed in 1883 with carvings of Disraili and Gladstone over his shop front and black and white timber cladding. North Bar, built of brick in 1409 cost 96 pounds and was one of four built at the entrances to the town with pedestrian access added in 1793 and 1866. Local buses were designed with a curved roof to fit under the arch, however there were several collisions which caused damage so buses and heavy vehicles have not been allowed through the arch since 1983. Attached to North Bar is Bar House, right, where the artist Fred Elwell lived for 42 years. Many of his paintings are on display at the art gallery. From 1390 a bellman went daily from North Bar to the beck at the other end of the town ringing his bell to mark the opening time for shops. In the 1400s he received one shilling per year for summoning burgesses to meetings.
The shops next to the trees, left, were built on the site of The Kings Arms, a coaching inn with stables to the rear, which was demolished in 1810, but the bracket on which the inn sign hung was left on the wall. St. Marys Manor next to the shops was built in the 1800s and renovated in the late 1900s when it was converted into apartments. Opposite, on the corner of Tiger Lane, stood a timber framed house built in the 1400s. In 1908 this was converted into a garage by Gordon Armstrong who built a car that he manufactured until 1918. After moving to Eastgate in 1917 his factory made shock absorbers and by 1939 he employed 450 people producing 4000 per day. The Tiger Lane site became a shopping arcade in 1982. The shops at numbers 41 to 47 are on the site of the Tiger Inn, built in 1730 and closed in the 1840s.
On the corner of Waltham Lane the Beverley Arms Hotel, built by William Middleton in 1794, is on the site of the Blue Bell Inn. It was here that Dick Turpin, the notorious highwayman and horse thief, using the name John Palmer, was tried at the Petty Sessions held in 1738, before being sent to the Bridewell Prison in Beverley and then to York, where he was hanged. The vaulted kitchens, probably part of the old Inn are now the coffee shop and were the subject of paintings by Fred Elwell. In the 1700s there was a bowling green behind the Inn. During World War 2 Lord Hotham would bring his own fruit and place it on the sideboard for himself. Several writers have stayed here including John Meade Falkner, who wrote Moonfleet, as well as Anthony Trollope, who named the hotel Percy Standard in his book Ralph the Heir. Trollope also stood unsuccessfully for member of Parliament for Beverley in 1868.
On the 25th February, 2016 the Beverley Arms Hotel unexpectedly closed and remained so until the 20th of April, 2017 when it was bought and taken over by Thwaites Inns and £6.½ million spent on a redesign and refurbishment finally opening on the 1st of August, 2018.
Fred Ewell's Bar house and North Bar
Before turning left into Hengate you can see Saturday Market straight ahead. This became prominent in the 1700s, replacing the smaller Wednesday Market. The market cross, designed by Samuel Shelton of Wakefield in 1711 and built between 1711 and 1714, replaced an earlier cross which had been vandalised. It bears the royal coat of arms, the symbol of the Borough of Beverley and the coat of arms of Sir Charles Hotham MP and Sir Michael Wartom MP.
Market Cross Beverley
On the corner of the market place stood the single storey Corn Exchange, built in 1753. This was replaced in 1886 by the brick built two storey building which later became a cinema, then a department store. Nearby were the fish shambles and there were also 45 butchers.
Turn R along Hengate. St. Marys church, left, was built in 1120 by city merchants as a chapel of ease for people who could not reach the minster. The building was enlarged over the centuries and became the parish church where the Guilds regularly met and it also became a meeting place for Minstrels from the north of England. The Minstrels Pillar in the nave has carvings of minstrels with their instruments. It is thought that Lewis Carroll saw the carving of a hare above the sacristy door when visiting his grandfather who was a Customs officer in Hull, and this became the Mad March Hare in Alice in Wonderland. A carving of the Lincoln Imp can be seen over the door to the priests room staircase, and 40 English kings are depicted on a ceiling painted in the 1400s.
St Marys church Beverley
Most of the houses in Hengate were originally built in the 1600s with the doors below the present pavement level. The White Horse public house, right, still has its original layout.
White Horse public house
The large Georgian house, left, was built in 1709 for Henry Spendlove. Before you turn right look up at the roof of the pub on the right hand corner opposite. The dog sitting there used to have a kennel,
but this was blown away in a storm. Turn R into New Walkergate, built as a bypass to the town centre in the 1980s, cutting off Walkergate, one of the ancient routes through the town.
Turn R at the mini roundabout at the junction with Railway Street. The railway station, designed by G.T. Andrews,
was built in 1846, and is a Grade 2 listed building. The remains of the Medieval Friary lie beneath the old marshalling yard. Continue along Lord Roberts Road, built in 1909, passing Wednesday Market,
right, which was the original market area close to the Minster. At one time there was a cock fighting pit and stocks, but the market was closed when Saturday Market became more popular. The department
store was opened in 1994 on the site of a garage built in 1955, which was on the site of the Primitive Methodist church of 1865. The market reopened in 1997 and is now used on Wednesday and Saturday.
Highgate, left, led from the Minster through the town centre to North Bar. Pass the Baptist Chapel, left, built in 1910. The chapel is to become the East Riding Theater, ERT for short and will open on the
18th September, 2014 seating 200 theatergoers and providing a bar and cafe.
The East Riding Theatre was used towards the end of 2014 for the location of the Walmington-on-Sea Town Hall drill hall for a new Dads Army film.
East Riding Theatre, Beverley
Imediately bear R past and the Magistrates Courts then turn L passing the Treasure House opened in 2007 to store the East Riding
archives. The building is now linked to the library built in 1906 with money donated by John Edward Champney. A museum and art gallery were opened in 1928.
Turn L along Lairgate. Originally built as St. Johns Church in 1841, which closed in 1939, the Memorial Hall,
left, was opened in September 1959 and was dedicated as a memorial to men and women who died in World War 2. The Hall, right,
built about 1700 was bought by Sir James Pennyman who was Mayor and MP for Beverley from 1774 to 1790. He commissioned
the architect John Carr to redesign several of the rooms. It became known as Admiral Walker House after Rear Admiral Walker who died in 1925, aged 89 and was the last private resident of the Hall. The Council took over in 1930.
Keep right along Admiral Walker Road and turn R at the double mini roundabout to WALKINGTON. Cross the cattle grid onto Westwood, an area of pasture owned by the council and administered by the Pasture Masters elected each March from the freemen of Beverley. Westwood lodge at Broadgate farm, left, marks the site of the East Riding Lunatic Asylum, built in 1871 and closed in 1989. The land was then sold for building. Cross the old railway line. Black Mill, right, was here in 1707, but the sails were removed in 1868. There
was a cricket ground here until 1909. Union Mill, left, was built in 1799 and flour was milled until the 1890s. It is now incorporated into the clubhouse for Beverley golf club. Horseracing started on Westwood in the 1690s and the racecourse, right, is now the only one in East Yorkshire. The first grandstand was built in 1767 and renewed in 1949 and 1967. An airfield was established on the racecourse in World War 1. During the 1930s an RAF radio section used the site and some of the first radio telephones were tested here.
A stone at the roadside near the traffic lights marks the outer limit of sanctuary from the Minster. Enter Walkington passing the mere, right. Several wells along the main street used to supply water to the village and in the 1800s Walt Stegg could be seen carrying water in two buckets suspended from a wooden frame, which he delivered for one halfpenny per bucket. Each June from Victorian times the villagers celebrated the successful gathering of the hay with a hayride to Bishop Burton, then on to Beverley in horse drawn wagons, ending with a pie and pea supper. The tradition has recently been revived.
Turn left along Kirk Lane, then left to All Hallows Church on the site of a Saxon church. It has a Norman tower in stone with a red brick chancel and nave, restored in 1898 by Temple Moore. The east window was made by Harry Harvey of York in 1970. The oak pulpit made in the 1600s was originally higher. In the early 1900s the local drum and fife band played for the services, sitting in the pews at the back of the south side of the church. You can see the extra ledge
for the music and the partly cut away ledge for the bass drum.
All Hallows church Walkington
In the churchyard beneath the clock is the grave of Oliver Cromwell Oliver, who left the village in 1900 to become
a railroad builder in America, then returned with many stories which he told in the pub.
Return to the main street and turn L. As you drive out of the village, the wold, right, is the site of an Anglo
Saxon execution cemetery. The bodies of 13 decapitated men were found in a 1960s excavation of an ancient
barrow near the old village of Hunsley. Dated between 600 AD to 1000 AD these are typical of executions
carried out on criminals, mostly men at this time. This is the only site discovered north of the Humber. The heads were
probably displayed on poles at the roadside, giving rise to the local name of Hells Gate.
Turn R at the crossroads to NEWBALD and enjoy the views across the countryside. Turn L into South Newbald Road to see the church of St. Nicholas, in the village of Noth Newbald, built about 1140 AD, in the form of a cross with the Norman tower in the centre. Pevsner describes this as the most complete Norman church in the East Riding. There are three Norman doorways and a carved figure holding a book stands above the nave doorway. During the restoration of the church in 1864 by J. Clough the roof of the nave was raised to its original height. The chancel arch is rounded with a carved rounded window above. Seven rounded arches form the reredos under the east window and the font covered in carved foliage is supported by pillars. The Coronation clock was installed in 1911 to celebrate the coronation of George the Fifth.
St. Nicholass church North Newbald
The last public flogging in Britain was held at the whipping post on the village green.
Continue along the road to South Newbald, turning L onto the A1034, Ermine Street, then R to HOTHAM. The land belonged to Sir John Hotham, who had been knighted by James the First in 1617 but then became a Parliamentarian and was appointed Governor of Hull in 1635, by which time he had been married five times and so increased his estates. At the start of the Civil War between the Royalists and Parliamentarians in 1642 Charles the First had been informed that there was a stash of arms in Hull left there from a previous battle with the Scots. He had set up court in York and in April 1642 Charles arrived outside Hull in the hope of seizing the arms. His way was barred and, after much negotiation, he returned to York. He then declared Sir John a traitor, but Parliament sided with Hotham and he remained as governor. In July 1642 Charles returned to Hull with a large army, having set up his court in Beverley and his forces in Anlaby. The king laid siege for three weeks but he was still unable to enter the town and retired to York. In 1643 Hotham surrendered Hull to the Royalists but this aroused suspicion and, together with his son John an arrest order was made in June 1643. They tried to escape to Beverley but were caught and taken to the Tower in London where they stayed until son John was beheaded on Tower Hill on the 1st of January 1645 and his father on the 2nd of January 1645.
During World War 2 enemy aircraft, after bombing Hull, would discharge their surplus bombs and landmines near the village. A Halifax Mk.5 aircraft from the 76th Squadron at Tollerton crashed in the farmyard of Dunnaby Hall farm, killing the pilot.
Bear R to see St. Oswalds church built in the 1100s with a short square Norman tower. Restored in 1904, the box pews were replaced by bench pews. Squire Clitherow had a raised pew in an upstairs room with a fireplace, so that he could watch the behaviour of his employees.
St. Oswalds church Hotham
Behind the church is the old rectory built in 1775 by the vicar James Stillingfleet in limestone with three bays, sash windows and single bay gabled wings, where John Wesley stayed in 1788. St. Oswald's House, a Georgian style brickvilla, was built in 1990 by Francis Johnson and partners of Bridlington.
An elm tree had to be cut down in order to build the War Memorial, right, in 1920. The village workhouse, in use until 1837 was nearby. At the sharp left hand corner of Main Street was the Primitive Methodist chapel built in 1869, closed in 1989 the building was demolished and rebuilt as a house using the original bricks. Around 1852 this part of Main Street was called Amen Lane. Behind the high, red brick walls is Hotham House, with the old manor house opposite, built before 1530. Hotham House was extended by Walter Wrangham who built the coach house in the 1870s with gardens down to the beck. At the end of the lane are two red brick houses belonging to Hotham Hall estate. The Hall, with five bays and a moulded doorcase with a pediment, was built for William Burton in 1720 using local limestone. His son Robert built the stable block with cupola and weathervane dated 1769. He also added two wings to the hall in 1772 which had two storeys and three bays, designed by Thomas Atkinson, and these were joined to the house by recessed, one bay buildings. Feeling the need in 1773 for more impressive grounds, he persuaded Sir George Montgomery Metham to sell him the adjacent North Cave Hall and Manor, which he then demolished. In 1871 E.J. Stacey Clitheroe, who was now squire and owner of the Hall, demolished the west wing and replaced it with a white brick wing for the servants, designed by William Moseley. He also created a new entrance hall with stone staircase and rebuilt the coach house.
Return to the War Memorial, turn L along Rectory Lane, then L, NORTH CAVE, to All Saints church, passing the lodge and park gates of Hotham Hall. A board on the lodge wall commemorates the men who died or were injured at Ipres in World War 1. The ancient church was rebuilt in the 1300s and has monuments to the Metham family inside. Alabaster figures in the north wall show Sir Thomas Metham, who was killed at Marston Moor whilst fighting Cromwell, together with a figure of his wife. In 1534 the vicar was accused of heresy and to escape being hanged or burnt he had to walk barefoot and barelegged round the church, holding a faggot in his arms.
All Saints church North Cave
Opposite is the vicarage built in 1823, but the north wing was demolished in 1950 after the vicars wife fell through the floorboards. Turn R into Church Street where William Alfred Gelder was born in 1854. He became an architect in 1878 and redesigned Hull city centre, having a street named after him. Lord Mayor five times he was knighted in 1903 and became an MP in 1910.
Turn L then bear R and turn L along Station Road. The railway station opened in 1885 and closed in 1964, the station building becoming a house. The railway bridge over the road was demolished in 1985, as local buses had to be made with flat roofs in order to drive under it. Right is Everthorpe Hall built in 1870 for Thomas Whitaker. In 1953 the owner Gilbert Baitson sold the Hall to the Home Office and it became a Borstal in 1956, later being converted to a prison for men. In 1991 it became HM Prison Everthorpe for Category C prisoners, enclosed by 18 feet high walls, and has 55 staff
houses on site. Privately run HM Prison Wolds was opened next to this in 1992 as a remand prison, but changed in 1993 to hold over 300 longer term prisoners. Two stone lions dating from 1875, originally in front of the Hall, guard the entrance.
Continue into West End, South Cave then turn R to ELLERKER, crossing the M63. In the village turn R at the T junction along the edge of the green where local children try to fall in the beck. Ellerker Hall, right, built mid 1800s has a rendered front with five bays and a central bay with pediment and has a late 1700s block behind. The Hall gained notoriety when, in 2005, the daughter of one of the richest men in Britain was found strangled.
The unusual wall round Sebastopol Cottage, right, was built in 1857 by the owner of the Hall. He had shipped arms to Sebastopol in the Crimea and used ballast on the way home, and this was used to build the wall in order to hide the owner from view of the Hall when she used the privy. Continue left round the green and walk up the alley to see St. Annes Church, built as a chapel of ease by John Ellerker in the 1100s. By the 1840s it was in ruins and John Loughborough Pearson was asked to design and rebuild it in local limestone with a belltower
and one bell. Pearson later built many churches including Truro Cathedral.
St. Annes church Ellerker
Turn R at the crossroads along the old Roman road towards ELLOUGHTON, then turn L at the roundabout along Stockbridge Road. The greenhouses were part of the market garden started by Dutchman Evert Cornelius Baarda who arrived in Hull in 1933. In the 1930s the village was the main route for lorries from Hull to the West, but the traffic eased when the A63 bypass was built in 1971. Turn L along Main Street then L to see the church of St. Mary the Virgin, built in the 1200s. Restored in 1843 by John Loughborough Pearson, the church was damaged by fire in 1964 due to faulty wiring but was restored by parishioners in 1965. Inside is a brass war memorial plaque dedicated to four United States Naval Officers
who died when the R38 airship crashed near Hull in October 1920.
St. Mary the Virgin church Elloughton
Back to Main Street and turn R passing, left, Elloughton Garth the childhood home in the 1920s of actor Ian Carmichael. The house was built in the 1500s then renovated in the 1700s and 1930s. The dovecote in the grounds was originally one of the oldest in the North of England. On the corner, left, is the United Reformed Church built in 1876 of yellow brick with red dressings. Continue along Main Street passing Sands Lane, right, where Arnold Reckitt built a house in 1904. This became a convalescent home for children in 1945, then a nursing home in 1985.
Entering BROUGH, turn R at the traffic lights into Welton Road, passing, left, the Methodist Church in red and yellow brick. All Saint's Church in red brick with stone mullioned windows and a 3 lancelet east window, has a brick porch with stone facings. Burr's playing field, left, was part of the Roman settlement of Petuaria and was excavated in the 1930s. Turn L at the mini roundabout into Station Road. The Ferry Inn, right, was built around 1600 and was originally The Ferry Boat Inn.
Ferry Inn, Brough
It was here that the highwayman Richard or Dick Turpin traded horses which he had stolen in Lincolnshire. Born in 1705 at Thackstead in Essex he was apprenticed to a butcher in Whitechapel in London, then set up as a butcher, stealing sheep and cattle to sell from the drovers who brought livestock to market, but was caught and went into hiding. After joining a gang of housebreakers called The Gregory Gang, who were so violent that by 1735 each had a 50 pound bounty price for capture, he teamed up with Tom King, a notorious highwayman, and they began robbing travellers on the roads round London, whilst living rough in a cave. After murdering Thomas Morris who attempted to capture him, as well as shooting Tom King, his bounty was raised to 200 pounds. Escaping to Lincolnshire and changing his name to John Palmer in 1737 he became a horse dealer.
For two years he traded horses stolen in Lincolnshire at the Ferry Boat Inn. Being by now quite affluent he frequented the Old Green Man Inn at Welton, and, after drinking heavily one night, he shot the game cock belonging to the landlord John Robinson who called the Justices, but he once more escaped. They found him at the Ferry Boat Inn and took him to the House of Correction in Beverley, where he was brought before magistrates at the Beverley Arms. From here he was sent to the Bridewell prison but could not pay the bail money and was sent to the Debtor's Prison in York Castle in 1739. After four months he wrote to his brother in Hempstead, but he would not pay the postage so the letter was returned to the post office. His old schoolmaster who was postmaster read it and, although signed John Palmer, he said that this was Richard Turpin's handwriting. After being identified by his schoolmaster Turpin was sentenced to hang for stealing a mare and foal and put in the condemned cell. If he had been accused of murder he would have been hanged and the body given to a surgeon for dissection.
Ever the dandy he bought new clothes and was taken in a cart through York to the cheers and jeers of the crowds. He ended his life on the Tyburn Tree or gallows on Knavemire by throwing himself off the scaffold, sometimes called the three legged mare. Buried in St. Georges graveyard his body was dug up and later found in a surgeon's garden, so the local people took his body back to the grave and buried it in quicklime. The gravestone reads:- John Palmer, otherwise Richard Turpin, the notorious highwayman and horse stealer. Executed at Tyburn April 7th 1739 and buried in St. George's graveyard. He was 33 years old. This was a time when people were burned at the stake for what
we consider minor offences.
Humber Yawl Club, right, founded in 1883, is one of the oldest yacht clubs in Britain, where Prince Philip was made an honorary member in 1951. Keep right and drive over the single track railway bridge then, where the road turns left, continue straight along the narrow road to the Haven where there is a car park facing the river. It is thought that the Romans crossed the river here in AD 71, probably by ferry, having marched along the Roman road from Lincoln through Wintringham. In 1953 Lord Noel Buxton tried to prove that the Romans walked from Whitton Ness over the mud flats, but the tide rose and he could not continue.
The town became a naval base named Petuaria and had a nine foot wall surrounding it. The Roman road, Ermine Street, continued to York and Malton then to Newcastle. The Romans left in AD 125, but the town continued as a port. The ferry originally landed near the present Ferry Inn, but by AD 400 the Haven had silted up and the wall was washed away. The ferry moved to Hessle in 1818.
Go back up the lane and turn R along Saltgrounds Road, passing, right, the BAE systems factory, manufacturers of the Hawk Advanced Jet Trainer aircraft. The runway at the original airfield is used when aircraft are transported to Warton for flight testing and painting. In 1914 Blackburn Aircraft company was started in Leeds and in 1916 sent Mark Swann to look for a suitable site on the East coast for testing flying boats and seaplanes. Brough was chosen and a landing area, steel hanger and slipway were built. A GP seaplane was produced in 1916 and the airfield was used by the Royal Naval Air Service float seaplanes until the end of World War 1. Meanwhile Blackburn produced many Kangaroo landplanes for the RAF.
In 1924 RAF reserve flying school was established and pilots came for refresher courses. On 24th July 1924 three Douglas World Cruiser aircraft from the US Army Air Service landed on the airfield. These were piloted by Lieutenant Lowell Smith flying Chicago, Lieutenant Leigh Wade flying Boston and Lieutenant Erik Nelson flying New Orleans. The planes were overhauled, fitted with float undergear and new engines by the Blackburn Aircraft Company. Leaving on 30th July to fly to Kirkwall in the Orkneys, they were attempting a new round the world record from Seattle, Washington, and, despite many setbacks Lowell Smith and Erik Nelson, with Leslie Arnold and John Harding arrived back in Seattle on 28th September, having flown 26,345 miles in twenty five weeks.
Many different planes were designed and produced over the years. In 1937 the Skua was built for the navy and in 1939 was the first British aircraft on HMS Ark Royal to shoot down an enemy aircraft. Tiger Moths started to be built in 1939 for Flying Training Command and continued until 1945. After merging with General Aircraft in 1949 the Buccaneer was produced in 1955, but this had to be tested at Holme on Spalding Moor as the take off and landing area was not adequate. The Station Hotel was renamed The Buccaneer in 1962.
Blackburn were taken over by Hawker Syddeley in 1961, then became British Aerospace. From 1966 to the early 1970s civilian aircraft used the airfield. The Harrier jump jet vertical take off and landing was also built here. The Red Arrows is the Royal Air Force Aerobatic team formed in 1964 and in 1979 they began using the BAE Hawk Advanced Trainer aircraft. The factory still produces many different parts for the aero industry. At the corner, opposite, the Business Centre was originally the Air Traffic Control centre for the airfield.
Continue to the traffic lights, turn R, Welton Road, WELTON, turning L at the roundabout and L into Welton, going over the A 63 into Cowgate. On the right is the Green Dragon, formerly the Green Man Inn, where Dick Turpin, then known as John Palmer, was frequently to be found drinking with the locals. He escaped through a window after shooting a game cock belonging to the landlord and returned to the Ferry Boat Inn at Brough, where he was captured.
Green Dragon, Welton
Beside the village pond is the church of St. Helen, restored in 1863 by Sir Gilbert Scott, when six silver pennies from the time of William Rufus were found in the foundations. A Saxon church is said to have originally been on the site, then William Rufus, who succeeded William the Conqueror in 1088, built his church here. With a square central tower, the church in cross shaped, and has an effigy of a Knight Templar in the south aisle, thought to be William Rufus. On the green is a listed fountain erected in 1874 in memory of Anne Popple. Behind the church is the old court house and police station.
St. Helens church Welton
Turn sharp left along Kidd Lane, then continue past the turning to Beverley to look at the Humber Estuary spread out in front of you. Turn round and turn L, Beverley, towards Riplingham, passing, right, the Raikes Mausoleum, built by Robert Raikes in 1818. Cross the Wolds Way and continue to the crossroads in Riplingham which in 1955 had a Ham class minesweeper named after it. Before the Black Death this was a much larger village and earthworks to the left show where the houses were. In 1803 the road and village were moved away from the site of Riplingham House.
Turn R at the crossroads, Little Weighton, then L ROWLEY Manor. Turn left to see Rowley church and manor house. The church, built in the 1100s, is midway between Riplingham and Little Weighton and served both communities as well as farmsteads in the area. The rectory built in 1923 was sold in 1924 and became a hotel in 1977. Ezekiel Rogers, rector in the 1600s, became a puritan and refused to read the bible so Archbishop Laud suspended him and he emigrated to Massachusetts with 30 families and founded a colony called Rowley. In 1994 a window commemorating Rev. Rogers was given by the Americans and was made by Sep. Waugh of York. The 13th Century font is from St. Nicholas Church, Beverley and the church was restored in 1852.
St Peters church Rowley
Continue to Little Weighton, passing the site of the railway that divided the village in 1885. Keep right along Old Village Road, passing the Reading Room built in 1905, now the Village Hall. Keep right to SKIDBY, passing the pond, right, where there is a carved tree, named Sidney and friends, carved by Jackie Ward Lomax. Carry on to Skidby, turning L into Main Street. The red brick Methodist chapel, left, built in 1902, stands opposite the village hall and institute built in 1928. The original reading room attached was the methodist chapel. A new Church of England primary school was built in 1964 and bricks from the old school built in 1864 were used for the churchyard wall.
On the hill, right, stands St. Michael's church originally built around 1255. Now part stone with brick additions, the original nave and tower were destroyed by fire in 1424 and rebuilt. In the chancel are five stained glass windows by Sep. Waugh of York from 1975 to 2001 in memory of parishioners. A stained glass screen in front of a window in the south wall was produced and paid for by local children in 1990 showing emblems of local organisation and including the signature of Princess Anne.
St. Michaels church Skidby
Continue to the crossroads and turn R Epplewell to Skidby Mill, right. Park in the small car park and walk through the gate up the path to the mill and mill buildings, where there is a Museum of East Riding Life. The mill has been grinding corn since 1316. The present site was used in 1796 for a wooden post mill but this was moved to the present mill in 1871 built by Norman and Smithson. See the date stone in the lower tower. A further extension was built in the 1870s to make it 5 stories high with a black bitumen tower and a white wooden ogee cap. The 4 wooden sails 12 metres long power the 3 sets of grinding wheels which grind grind wholmeal flour from locally grown wheat. In 1954 the mill was sold to Allied Mills who installed electric motors, but these were only used until 1966 when it was bought by Beverley Borough Council for 1 pound. This is the last working windmill in Yorkshire and the sails were removed, together with the cap in 2008, repaired and replaced in 2009.
Return to the main street, turn right then left at the roundabout A 164 BEVERLEY. Just before the roundabout a 2 storey block of cottages, left, is all that is left of Victoria Barracks, built in 1878, on a 10 acre site and closed in 1961. This housed the 15th Foot East Yorkshire Regiment, called The Snappers, as well as many others over the years. The keep next to the main gate housed the armoury, the magazine, a clothing store and fumigation room of the hospital, which had 20 beds. Accommodation blocks were light and airy having windows on both sides. The depot acted as a mobilisation station in 1914 for the 21 battalions in the Regiment. In March 1941 bombs destroyed the keep, the orderly room and the gymnasium. The 6 Boys Training regiment formed by the Royal Corps of Signals were stationed here from 1950 to 1956, with the WVS running the canteen. A new block, Clifton Block was built in 1955, named after Sir William Clifton, who raised the regiment, then called the Prince of Wales Regiment of Yorkshire, in the 1750s.
After closure in 1961 the Barracks were demolished and the site sold by the the Secretary of State in 1977. A superstore was built on the site in 1992.
Take 2nd exit at the roundabout, 1st exit at next roundabout, then at the 2nd mini roundabouts turn R into the Keldgate B1230. Merchants had to pay tolls when they entered the town through one of the gates or bars. One of these was South Bar or Keldgate Bar, demolished in 1814, and the Beehive public house was built at 73 now the site of a new development of houses. A Franciscan Friary stood outside the bar in the 1200s. as well as a leper hospital.
Left opposite the bar is the site of the Westleyan mission Hall built in 1899, now houses. Keldgate House, right, number 51 white, with a sculptured head over the door, and the old school building at 51a, were listed in March 1950. The house was built in early 1700s and the school building in 1740s and the school building in 1740, which has a music room with an overmantle based on William Kent's Designs of Inigo Jones.
Keldgate House and School
On the left is number 54, the old school masters House. Parts of the building date from the 1600s, and there are 2 staircases, a chapel and a priesthole. Succeeding School Maters taught at the grammar school which was in the minster grounds. A new schoolroom in the South west corner was built in 1606 and in 1816 a new school was built next to the master,s house number 54. Also left. Next to older almshouses opened by the Duchess of Northumberland new Almshouses were opened in 2002 on the site of a market garden.
54 School and masters house
Opposite is Keldgate manor, a Georgian Grade II listed building, with 2 white gate houses, a care home since 1986.
White gates entrance to Keldgate manor
The red brick building at number 28, left, is Ann Rouths Hospital. Her first husband Chris Moor endowed 100 pounds per year for 12 poor widows frequenting the church of St. John or St. Martins. These were listed in 1950. Built in 1749 by Thomas Wrightson and designed by James Moyser.
Ann Rouths Hospital
Keep right along Minster Yard South passing the Minster, left. St. John of Beverley founded a monastery on the site in the 700s and was buried here in 721. This is the fourth building and was begun in 1220 taking 200 years to build. A lantern tower was replaced by the present tower in the 1700s and has the largest surviving treadwheel crane in England and used to lift building material up to the roof. Near the High Alter is the Firth Stool, a stone chair used as a sanctuary chair. Sanctuary was granted to criminals here stretching for 1 mile round round the minster. Sanctuary stones can still be seen on some of the roads. A criminal had 30 days to prove his innocence. They were sheltered by the canons then after 30 days handed over to the coroner for a fair trial. Alternatively they were outlawed and given a fixed time to reach a part to be sent overseas. Many of pillars have carvings of musicians carrying instruments giving an insight into the instrument used in the 1300s. In medieval times thousands of pilgrims cam to worship at the shrine of St. John. James Elwell of Beverley carved the chancel screen in 1880.
Nearby in Friary Lane, are the remains of the Dominican Friary built in 1263 with 15 oaks from the Forest of Galtres given by Henry III. It was rebuilt in 1449 after a fire and was seized by Henry VIII. The dormitory and library are the only buildings left and were restored in the 1960s and became a youth hostel.
Turn R into Flemingate, leading to Beverley beck. One of the oldest roads in the town, the name comes from the Flemish settlers who left Belgium in the 1100s and were mostly merchants or cloth workers. Many of the old houses have been replaced by modern dwellings. Near the level crossing numbers 17, 19, 21 are Grade 2 listed. Behind this are the remains of one of the Friary walls, which is Grade 2 listed. This area was quite industrial during the 1800 and 1900s. From 1800 - 1900 Hodgson's tannery stood on the site taken over by the the Museum of Army Transport, left. This had 100 vehicles and aircraft and from 1988 housed the last remaining Blackburn Beverley aircraft. The Morris Gutty prototype for the Austin Champ army vehicles, which was superseded by the Land Rover, was also on show here. Unfortunately the roof of the old tannery building housing some of the exhibits fell in and the museum was closed in 2003. This, together with the Clariant chemical factory was demolished in 2008. This became derelict, but was removed and opened as the Grounds pub in 1997, then renamed Hodgson's in 2000.
Number 58, right, listed was built in the 1600s, but an earlier house on the site probably the home of St. John Fisher. Born at 58 Flemingate 1469. His father Robert was a merchant, but died when John was eight. John attended the school held in the Minster and continued at the Grammar School, where a house is now named after him. After obtaining his MA at Cambridge and became vice chancellor in 1501 and chancellor in 1504, when he was also appointed Bishop of Rochester. He was also tutor to Prince Henry who became Henry VIII an ardent upholder of the Roman Catholic faith, he opposed Henry VIIIs divorce in 1532, would not sign the oath of succession, so was sent to the Tower of London for a year and charged with treason in 1535. He was beheaded on Tower Hill in June 1535 and his head stuck on a pole on London Bridge. He was made a Saint by Pope Pius XI in 1935. A bomb dropped on Flemingate in August 1943 but many residents had gone to the cinema on Butcher Row and escaped injury. The red brick chapel, right, was built in 1881-2 by R. Arnott of Beverley and was Flemingate Methodist Church (Wesleyan), and was being converted into apartments in 2008.
Continue to Beckside. The bronze statue of a creeler sculpted by Chris Wormald unveiled in July 2010 a labourer unloading boats marks the end of Beverley Canal which runs for 1.3 km into the River Hull.
Formed when Grove hill Lock was constructed on Beverley beck in 1802 to keep the water level high enough for boats to sail into the canal, bringing goods into Beverley. A steam engine was installed in 1898. Tolls were charged from 1296 until the 1900s.
Syntan Barge registered in Hull moored at Crane Hill wharfe
The Beverley and Branston drain passes underneath the canal. Ships were built for 200 years from the 1700s, and were launched sideways into the River Hull. The Beverley launched 1829. The old warehouses were replaced by houses during the late 1900s and the whole area onwards renovated.
Turn left into Butcher Lane and follow Holme Church Lane, passing St. Nicholas Church, left. This was built in the 1800s, on the site of a Norman Church St. Nicholas church Holme, which fell down during a storm in 1604.
St. Nicholas church Beverley
At the roundabout take 2nd exit along Swinmoor Lane, passing the industrial estate right. Take 3rd exit at next roundabout A1035 Hull Bridge Road. Continue to the white cross roundabout, take 2nd exit A 165 along the Leven bypass opened in 1994. In the woods near the White Cross was a camp first used during WW2 by military personal and then as a prisoner of war camp before being used to house refugees and displaced foreign nations. Lord Haw Haw, the name given to German English Language announcers during World War 2, is thought to have referred to the inmates as "The Babes in the Wood" during one of his broadcasts.
At the next roundabout take 1st exit to LEVEN and keep left along High Stile. The old school, right, is now a restaurant. Built in 1800 the boys school was demolished and a new school built in 1874. The old police station, right, now a surgery, was built in 1852 and had 3 cells, 3 constables, an inspector and a sergeant. It served as the Petty Sessional Division for North Holderness, and magistrates were in attendance every alternate Wednesday.
As you reach the T junction, left opposite Canal Head House. Leven Canal was opened in 1804 and was 3 miles long running from the River Hull enabling barges to reach the Canal Head granaries in the village. Sandholme Aqueduct, built 1801, carrying the canal over Burshill Drain is listed. The canal became uneconomic and was closed in the 1930s, becoming a site of Special Scientific Interest. Locks regulate the flow of water from the river, and one of the lock keepers in the 1800s was William Simpson whose daughter in law Matilda took over from her husband and lived there with her sons until at least 1901.
Turn right into South Street. The original girls school and head teachers house, right, was built in 1866 and altered to admit boys in 1996 is situated to the rear left of the primary school extension. Leven Village sculpture, left, made from a rare Turkey oak tree, probably planted in the church yard in about 1843, was felled in 2003 and craved by local artist Ms. Jacky Ward Lomax in 2004 to feature things relevant to the area. Holy Trinity church, left, was built on land given by Sir Richard Bethel in 1843 to a design by Robert Chantrell of Leeds and has the font from the original church St. Faith's which was 1½ miles away near the airfield.
Holy Trinity church Leven
West street, left, leads to Little Leven which was a settlement from times of the ancient Britons Axe heads, coins, spears and swords have been found in the marshy land in the area. St. Faith's church was built in the 1100s. and was demolished in 1844 when it became unusable. A small cemetery still remains. There is also Linley Hill a small airfield founded in the 1920s where Amy Johnson was once a pupil. Both West and East Street opposite were once used as ropewalks, where the ropewalker walked along the long spinning hemp strands, raking the small fibres flat with a tool called a top. A mile stone 1 metre in diameter was found near the mill north of High stile in 1807. This had oval indentations which meant that it was used to mill barley used in Frumenty, a medieval dish used until the 1800s. The pounded wheat was boiled in milk or broth and sweetener or spice added. It was served at Christmas Eve served with cheese, apple pie and yule cake.
Continue straight along the old main road to BANDESBURTON. Mammoth tusks have been found in Star Carr, right, in the gravel pits. These gravel pits either side of the road were deposited when the sea receded, and in recent times were used commercially. When these closed the lakes were used for for water sports. New road by passed the old village in 1925. At the roundabout turn L into Main Street, passing the village sign left.
Right is the new rectory with the old rectory built in the 1700s, and coach house and stables 1800s. Turn right along the gravelled Church Drive to St. Mary's church. The earliest stone church was built in the 1100s, and after falling into disrepair in the 1700s was restored in the 1890s. The walls are now cobbled, with a brick porch. There are carvings of the nativity behind the alter dating from 1897. The only bracket brass in East Yorkshire depicts William Darrell, rector of Halsham and Brandesburton who died in 1364. The other brass depicts Sir John St. Quintin who died in 1397 and his wife Lara 1369. The heads of both men have been removed at some time. A peep hole or hafioscope left, enable the people to see the alter. Originally this was outside before 1897, for lepers to look through.
St. Marys church Brandesburton
At the top of the drive right is the school built in 1843. Turn R passing Cross Hill, the green where three steps lead up to the octagonal shaft of the old market cross. Opposite is the Old Manor House, which in the 1700s was named Hall Garth.
Turn L at the junction, then R, Frodingham. Left is the grounds of Brandesburton Hall built in 1772 and rebuilt in 1872 by Jonathan Harrison. This became a hospital in 1932 and was closed in 1995 when it became flats, with a golf course.
Continue to NORTH FRODINGHAM. At the junction turn L along Church lane to see St. Elgins church. Dating from at least the 1100s, with a tower from the 1400s the church has been renovated many times. The walls are cobbled and the tower was heightened in 1891 to designs by Temple Moor, paid for by Sir Tatton Sykes. A niche from 1300s in the nave wall contains a statue of St. Mary.
St. Elgins church North Frodingham
The vicarage next door was originally built in 1535 in red brick with stone chimneys. Rebuilt in 1619 it became Church End Farm when a new vicarage was built across the road in 1860. Seats outside the church commemorate the Jubilee in 1935 and coronation in 1953.
Turn round and continue back into the village, at the junction with Brandesburton road is the site of a medieval cross. This was said to have been destroyed by navvies working working on the Beverley and Barmston drains in 1800. In 1811 a new cross on the old base was in place and a new shaft added in 1991.
Return to the main Street and turn R left is the old pump also the Wesleyan chapel built in 1891, still used in 1995. Nearby the old chapel was built in 1801.
Continue to BEEFORD along B1249, bearing right. The old school built in 1818, right, was changed to a hall and reading room in 1840, then became St. Leonards church rooms. The new primary school was enlarged in 1965.
Turn left into Rectory Lane to see St. Leonards church with the shaft of the cross in the churchyard. Behind the remains of the red brick wall was the old rectory built in 1786. This was rebuilt in 1833 and extended in 1900s by Brokrick, Lowther and Walker of Hull. Part was demolished and the front remodelled by Francis Johnson in 1940, but was finally demolished in 1995.
St. Leonards church Beeford
A new rectory was built in 1998. There was a church here in 1086 and this was enlarged in the 1299s. The tower was built in the 1400s and has a niche containing a statue of St. Leonard. Much restored and rebuilt it contains an octagonal font from the 1400s and Royal arms from 1814. A brass effigy of Thomas Tonge rector from 1431 - 72.
Turn round and return to the main Street, turn left. On the corner was the blacksmith's shop and pump.
Nearing LISSETT passing close to the wind turbines, left, turn left at the sign for the Industrial Estate into Main Street left is the old shop
Left, is the chapel of St. James of Compostella, originally built in 1100s of rubble and boulders, but was rebuilt in brick and rendered in 1876. The chapel contains two ancient bells, one dated 1254 is said to be the oldest in England, both were restored in 1974. There is an ancient round topped stone doorway in the south wall with zip sag decoration. Inside is a circular font from the 1100s. A memorial window in the nave commemorates the RAF squadron stationed at Lissett from 1943 - 1945. There is also a memorial in the chapel yard, right.
St. James of Compostella Church Lissett
Keep left along Gransmoor Road and the World War 2 airfield is left. This was
first used in December, 1942 as a relief landing ground for OTU at Catfoss.
Opened as a bomber airfield in No. 4 Group in February 1943 with 3 runways,
the main one 5,600 ft long. There were 36 hardstandings as well as ancillary
buildings. Stationed here was 158 Squadron, flying Halifax bombers carried out
bombing raids over Germany.
The Halifax bomber Friday the 13th first flew from Lissett in March 1944 and
completed 128 operations in 13 months. It had a skull and crossbones and
inverted horseshoe painted on the fuselage for luck, and the Navigator stood
in front of a cracked mirror. The airfield closed in 1945, but in February
2009 opened as a windfarm housing 12 wind turbines.
Propellers still turn at Lissett airfield
Pull into the lay-by, left, to appreciate the striking memorial to the 851 airmen
killed on active service from the airfield. Unveiled in May 2009 it shows 7
airmen in relief, as if walking towards you. The sculptor was Peter Wallwork
Naylor, and was made by Campbell and Son, made in Corten Weathering steel, on a
158 squadron memorial
158 squadron aircrew
Turn round and return to Lissett. Bear left at the sign post into Fisher Lane and
continue to the junction with the A165 Bridlington Road and turn left. Follow
the A165 back to Bridlington until you reach the roundabout and turn left.
Continue along Moor Lane until you reach the roundabout and take the second exit,
continue along the A165 until you reach the Scarborough Road roundabout in
Bridlington Old Town back to where you started. Having had an adventure with
aeroplanes and highwaymen. We do hope you enjoyed it. We enjoyed researching it and writing it. You have now completed your Minster Drive. © GMH
If you enjoyed that try another Yorkshire Wolds Guide
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